THE 'BERLIN WALL' - WALK

.. IN BERLIN: WE WALKED THE WALL WHICH WASN’T!!

That was the sunny summer of June,2003.After about a week in Switzerland, we crossed the border to reach Freiburg in Germany- to see my friend Frederick von Knorre. Touring in the picturesque Black Forest in his 1958 Ford-‘Thunderbird’ vintage, he suddenly pulled out near the historical town of Grunwald and showed me weirdly painted concrete slabs grounded vertically on the road side. He asked to guess about those edifices. Had he given me even hundred choices, I would not have been anywhere near the answer as “pieces of dismantled Berlin Wall”. Related stories ignited our interest. We were in Germany to participate in ‘European Lock Collectors Meet’ in historical town of Velbert, near Dusseldorf. Though we had two-weeks- Eurail pass, and intended to travel to neighboring Austria also, visit to Berlin was like detour to Delhi in South India’s tour. We resolved this by taking night train from Cologne to Berlin with shortened Rhine cruise, and return from Berlin, again by DB NachtZug [Deutsche Bahn-night train] to Vienna. We were to get two days there [and save some precious Euros for two nights hotel stay!]

In main tourist office of Berlin near Zoo station, desk person asked us- Fun, History or Zeitgeist? Trying to understand the meaning of the latter [‘intellectual and cultural climate of that era’] we realized that we have to define our preferences precisely. In this city of contrasts and extremes with 172 museums, we opted to combine Royal Prussian past and dark evils of Nazism, but back in mind that curiosity to discover the scattered bits of broken Berlin Wall and to put them together like jigsaw puzzle to solve the mystery of post world war history.

We’d done our home work seriously and ‘studiously’--after Germany’s defeat, each of the victorious powers occupied separate zone of Berlin-USA, Britain and France on West and Soviets on East. This was the beginning of Cold war as the rift between two worlds of Capitalists and Communists was literally DEEP-Dreams, Employment, Exuberance, Prosperity in the West and Despair, Emptiness, Extremism, Poverty in the East. Naturally- more than three million people had fled from East Germany to West Berlin between 1949 to1961. The long wall, encircling about 160 kilometers perimeter of Berlin, started taking shape from 13 August 1961, in a bid to stop such a massive exodus to Berlin. This divisive landmark, for next 28 years, split not only the German capital and nation, but also an entire generation.

We were on feet, strolling along the avenue -Unter den Linten [ literally meaning ‘beneath the Lime trees ] and marveling those historical monuments-Berliner Cathedral, History museum, National Gallery, Reichstag [ parliament ] and ultimately reached the landmark Brandenburg Gate; the most beautiful and only surviving of 18 city gates built in 1789. It was the symbol of ‘divided city’, as one section of the Berlin Wall had sealed the gate. It was rightly said-"The German issue will remain open as long as the Brandenburg Gate is closed”. Under the pressure of east German people in a peaceful revolution, Soviets gave in and the Wall fell on November 9, 1989.The ‘Pariser Platz, empty square on eastern side was flooded with citizens as the gate was opened two days later. In the days and weeks that followed, people came to the wall with sledgehammers to dismantle it, while cranes demolished lengthy parts of the wall. Since then, the same Gate, till to date, stands as the emblem of the reunification of Germany.

We were standing in front of an international beauty pageant, in which an Indian contestant was prominently ‘standing out’-adding glory in the glamour of this grand gate. My camera kit and a foot long telelens gave me an easy access to the group photo session and unique opportunity to shoot.., but I could imagine what it would be all those 30 years of cold war, when every day, every single soldier was positioned to aim and shoot...to prevent those possible attempts to cross the wall. Early successful escapes involved people jumping the initial barbed wire or leaping out of apartment windows along the line but these ended as the wall was fortified. Later successful escape attempts included digging the long under ground tunnels, or taking a hot air balloon during the favorable winds, or sliding along aerial wires, and even flying ultra lights. However there were 133 confirmed killings during such escape efforts to West Berlin.

To give some rest and respite to our sore feet, after almost six hours of walking around with back packs, we took a train to Orienberg.That was a place of infamous concentration camp -Sachsenhausen. This silent site of Nazi Holocaust rather inflicted more pain and strain to our numb minds.

We returned to Potsdamer Platz in central Berlin. During 1920s it was one of the busiest traffic junctions of the world! The damage during world wars, added by this division of the city, transformed such popular and populous square into no man’s land with ‘death-strip’ and ‘the wall’ ran right through the square. The circle turned full in next eighty years, as it regained its past glory- now one of the largest building sites in Europe and a fascinating spectacle of modern technology and innovation. We could spot few segments of preserved wall, giving us dramatic photo opportunities. The location of the whole length of former wall is now marked by a row of cobblestones in the street. We walked on that particular stretch, as if walking the Berlin Wall, and returned back for the dinner, to call it a day.

Next day morning-we visited Potsdam and its world famous Castle Sans souci [ meaning free of anxieties, in French] and then Charlottenburg Palace , again a wonder of Old Prussia . However we wanted to rush for that most talked and photographed place of the cold war- Checkpoint Charlie. We took U-bahn train and got down at ‘Friedrichstrasse’. Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie was just in front of us. It’s been claimed as the first museum of international ‘nonviolent protest’. Their exhibits rightly include Mahatma Gandhi’s diary and sandals, along with related knick-knacks. “The world is so well built that against every injustice there are stronger, vanquishing forces. ...From every injustice arises justice, from every untruth emerges truth, from darkness comes light...” – the words of Mahatma Gandhi were flashing boldly in another display.

The plaque on the cross roads read---‘the separation of the world began and ended at the checkpoint Charlie, the best known border cross point between West and East. That is where American and Soviet tanks confronted each other in October 1961 when the U.S. defended fundamental rights of the Berlin status. The world held breath…’ I also held breath and inhaled deeply, while posing for the photo in front of ‘US soldier’s poster’, to hide that unsightly bulge on tummy [that was the money pouch with passports, hidden on body!]

We managed to find main three of major remnant sections of the Berlin wall. We walked the length of it- this symbol of war and hate and division. How could people in the modern world believe such instance to imprison a group of people behind a wall? It was real, not mythical. With closed eyes in that night train from Berlin to Vienna, I was imaging the guard towers, searchlights, barking dogs and Kalashnikov shots that once made the wall the global symbol of the Iron Curtain. Recollecting those scenes of movie- The ‘Mauer-Spechte’ [Wall woodpeckers] - tens of thousands of people sledge hammering the wall, breaking through the border crossing points – stunned and crying for joy, and celebrating… Suddenly it was interrupted, as if by the popular commercial break on television- ‘Bhaiyaa, Ye Deewar tootati kyun nahi? [Why this wall is not coming down/ is it too strong to break it off ?] And I thanked, on the behalf of German brethren that Berlin Wall was not made of that famous Indian Ambuj.. Cement !!

.. ..A .. F R E E .. F A L L..

‘In a vacuum at sea level, an object will accelerate at approximately 9.81 m/s2, regardless of its mass. With air resistance acting upon an object, if dropped from sufficient altitude, it will eventually reach a terminal velocity of 200 km/hour; say for a human body...’

Such principles were left behind long back, right since I left IIT to join Medicine. Eventually Physics was replaced by Physiology. But today, once again, ‘motion’, was propelling ‘emotion’; harmony of mind and body was deranged by a rush of the hormone -Adrenaline! It must have reached to the highest level. I was in a state of total fright in that flight- at a height of 10000 ft. in the sky. It was not first time that I was flying in an aircraft, but I was so scared because the door of that plane was open and I was sitting on that doorstep, holding the top bar with my legs dangling in the air! The man behind me was urging me to jump and even asking me to give a ‘big smile’ in front of that wing mounted camera- sounding quite sadistic!! I heard the begging of that 6 ¾ ft. tall Estonian, shaking in the stooping posture, to let him fly down along with the pilot, without making him to ‘jump off’. But his instructor replied that this plane is not having facilities of landing down with ‘live’ passengers! Yes, all of us were crouching on the floor-no seats and, of course, no seat belts in that small turboprop air craft! I have not seen Frank Capello’s movie ‘No way back’, but today I realized the meaning of that title. Summoning all my courage I jumped off …along with Eugen on my back and Konz by my side.

We had flown in Auckland,via Singapore, almost two weeks back. Sandeep and Nitu,my brother and his wife, encircled the globe other way round from Boston in USA and joined us there on the airport only.We had rented a van-‘Toyota Lucida' and set off to 3000 miles marathon in New Zealand,as if on an adventure spree.We had been to many interesting but challenging activities in New Zealand till then, like sailing lessons in rough sea at Paihia, blind cave tubing in Wiatomoto, volcano crater walk in Rotorua, trout fishing in Lake Taupo, and just two days back, a walk on Frank Joseph glacier, having been flown on the top by helicopter and ventured with those crampons and ice axe….everything for first time in life. From Fox Glacier we took detour to Wanaka by lengthy but exceptionally scenic road through mountains. On the way, near Arrowtown, we spotted many sites of shooting of popular movie-‘Lords of Rings’. From Lake Wanaka, our next destination was -the Mecca of the adventure sports [and the origin of Bungee jumping] - Queenstown, for a ‘Shotover River’ ride in speed boat, and then a cruising in near by Milford Sound. Next was Dunedin where we were driven in twelve-wheel cart in remote hinterland to spot Albatross Colonies and rare Blue Penguin ‘nests’. Lastly, before returning home from Christchurch, we had one of the most scenic and historical rail journeys to the highest summit of Arthur Pass. Of course we had to cancel 'hot-air ballooning' at the last minute, as the weather was not favorable.

On that day, in Wanaka, after visiting Stuart Landsboroughs, the world best museum of the puzzles, we directly headed for the ‘Sky dive’. The big banner there read-‘No previous sky diving experience is necessary, all you need to bring is a BIG SMILE and an attitude for adventure!’ [‘and also credit cards’- they should have added! 'Free' fall was misnomer!! ]

After the registration formalities, there was almost an hour of briefing including small movie, explanatory talk, medical checkup and detailed consent. This was the tandem sky diving and Eugen was my instructor, quite a jolly fellow. He again explained the whole procedure with the sequence of events and postures necessary at different stages, like jumping off the plane, free falling, opening the parachute and landing, the last was most vital. After wearing that multi-coloured ‘space-suit’, he asked me ‘don’t you feel like an astronaut?’I rather questioned back-‘I’ve heard of pet animals going in the space, but has any clown ever made that journey?’ We developed very friendly fine-tuning. Bound to be-because our bodies [and lives] were to be suspended from the same ropes! Beautiful Konz was to be my video-cum- camerawoman. I could see at her- ‘eye to eye’ right from the very moment we were introduced. Yes, she was almost as tall as me-6’2’’! She was black belt too! While leaving for the air field she started recording-‘before taking off for this mission, do you want to tell something to your family, just in case…’ I was very optimistic in my reply-‘I’ll send the message to them, but after returning to the ground!’ She had one of the most modern photographic gadgets- hand held digital video camera and head mounted still camera with a remote button in the mouth, between the teeth! With these she was to take forty pictures and fifteen minute video recording, showing footage of the whole sequence of the ‘Sky dive.’ This was to be dubbed on a DVD with a funky sound track! Measuring how ‘Big’ was your smile, when you jump off the plane?

Gradually we started achieving the height. Our pulse rate was rising in line with the altimeter reading. Lake Wanaka and surrounding hilly area is supposed to be one of the most picturesque spots, and most popular for the sky-sports. The view out of the window was heavenly, and why it should not be? Now, we were near the heaven than rest of the world, by almost 10000 ft! Any atheist, in his first such endeavor will start praying, and leave his fate to God , and of course to that man ‘harnessed’ to his back, the one who is supposed to open right buttons and pull the right strings at the right time.

Those 45 seconds during which we dropped by some 7000 feet are the unforgettable moments in my life. A belly to earth "arch" position with face down and hands spanned like wings, you are not less than a bird.

Those images of fast approaching land-green checkered fields, water streams and cattle grazing on slopes of snow-capped mountains along the azure blue lake at the distance- are permanently etched in the ‘memory card of my grey cells’-one can’t neither delete nor format that! The acrobatics Eugen and Konz did, holding each other’s hands- I’d seen these only on the ‘Discovery channel’ till then. Once the parachute was activated and opened, we felt a slight jerk and came into a sitting posture. Then we gently glided for about five minutes, spiraling and sounding like a ‘vulture’, and savoring the surrounding beauty before landing down. Feet on the ground after a safe and smooth landing, I thanked Eugen and he thanked Lord Hanuman with folded hands. Yes, I’d narrated him the story about this ‘PavanPutra” God and his flying [and rescuing] prowess!

I persuaded my wife, Namita, to repeat the same feat. She was initially not willing, quite afraid about the risk of injury and casualty! But I tried to coax her by this Gujarati saying-“Jivato Hathi Lakh No, Marelo Sava lakh No”. [Meaning, the dead elephant, for the precious ivory tusks, is far more worth than the live one].Unfortunately I was mistaken in the comparison of these ‘figures’ and she got furious. I had to clarify that the figure I was referring was purely ‘arithmetical’ and not ‘geometric’ at all! She got convinced to attempt that ‘Big Smile’, but only after confirming the figure in our insurance policy! She also landed safely!!

KBAL SPEAN—INDIA IN CAMBODIA

How will ‘Paanchvi Pass se Tez’- Shahrukh Khan spell Kbal? Will he pronounce it like k k k Kbal? He may utter or stutter... whatever, but the magical spell he had cast on the Cambodians was unquestionably pronounced and perceivable, when we were touring Cambodia. His then released 'Mein Hoo Naa' was running hit; likewise many other Hindi movies were also shouting ‘Hum Hai Naa’, from the shelves of video parlors in Cambodia. This was just the beat of ‘Reel India’ we could palpate on the streets of Phnom Penh before exploring gigantic ‘stone- scape’ in Angkor where ‘Real India’ has been throbbing for last 1000 years. It had been my dream for a long time to visit this biggest Hindu temple in the world -Angkor Wat.

When we flew from Bangkok to Phnom Penh, we didn’t miss home. Right from customs clearance to catching a cab, we went through our chronically common-crowd, chaos and confusion. Our drive from the airport to the city was even 3-Dimensionally familiar-Dust, Dirt and Diesel fumes. The Khmer Rouge revolution and civil unrest of more than 20 years had their disastrous effect. A most beautiful colonial city of the Far East of some few decades past had been pushed back to a dilapidated stage of 'Big Village'. Now it has gradually started to regain its past glory.

Cambodia is a 'hot' tourist destination right now, recently grabbing the honor of top ten "coolest places in the world to visit" by Lonely Planet. However when I was still studying medicine in India some 30 years back, most of the doctors in this country were killed, as were most of the educated and intellectual citizens. Such genocide, bigger and more barbarous than a Nazi holocaust had happened during our life time: this was the painful thought which haunted me and prompted me to plan this unusual side trip to Phnom Penh, before visiting Angkor Wat. Can anybody believe that one third population of eight million was brutally murdered by Pol Pot and his red army? Mass graves, Killing fields and The Tuol Sleng Museum are just few of the stirring testimonies of the terror of the Khmer Rouge which we visited.

From Phnom Penh we opted to travel to Siem Reap by Mekong Express-a fast motor boat. This five hours journey on Tonle Sap Lake was an experience by itself. Our family of five was like aliens amongst a big French group. We were amused to see them confused, as they probably could not correlate our features with the local Khmer population who generally has flat faces, curly hair, and wide cheek bones with stubby nostrils. From the decks we could view the interesting morning life on the lake with rice fields, bamboo boats and fishermen going about their work, reminding us of our Backwaters in Kerala. The rows of floating houses, standing on long poles along the banks were making a unique landscape. Actually Tonle Sap is a river, which swells up during monsoon when Mekong River reverses its flow in this tributary. This results in the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia and a unique ecological hotspot, which is now designated as a UNESCO biosphere since 1997.

Angkor Wat is the biggest temple complex, of any religion, in the world. And it is just one of a hundred or so monuments that remain scattered over an area of about 150 square miles in northern Cambodia. These Hindu temples, built between 9-13 century A.D. [and thousands miles away from Indian shores] are more Majestic than Pyramids, more Magical than Taj mahal, more Magnificent than Colosseum, Mightier than Great Wall, more Mysterious than Machu Pichu, more Mesmerizing than Redeemer Christ and more Monumental than Petra .Anyone who visits Angkor will always lament for- it not being listed in above seven wonders of the world!.

Thanks to the internet and travel web sites-I’d downloaded many references and reviews of serious travelers which optimized our itinerary. We had a three days pass, with a cab and a driver cum guide, during which we could maximize and visit many of the temple complexes. Angkor Thom, Bayon, Bantey Srei, Srah Srang, Bakong ,Neak Pean, Prah Khan,Ta Prohm…. These temples [and their ‘tongue-twister’ names] startle us with their splendor and artistry, perfection and geometry, architecture and lyrical poetry. How ever for us, visit to them was far more than that... it was like reliving the Hindu legends, recollecting epic stories, recognizing the characters of Ramayan and Mahabharat, and more than that resolving the queries of many foreign tourists and even guides; and the highlight was Vrushali's rendering of the 'Mudras' of Vishnu's 'Dashavatar' before that French group! We were proud and fulfilled Indians.

“I wouldn't count Kbal Spean as a 'must see'...I won't advise you to visit Kbal Spean, though... I don't find it worth the additional cost and effort...” Similar kind of reviews on few travel forums initially deterred us to visit it. When we learned that we would need to trek through the woods (and to break the monotony of the temples' trail), we decided to start our second day from Kbal Spean, which means 'Head Bridge' literally in Khmer language. It is famous as the “valley of a 1000 Lingas” and is set deep in the jungle, some 45 miles north east of Angkor. It was discovered back in 1968 and closed to pubic till 1998 as the place was occupied by gorillas of Khmer Rouge and infested with land mines. At present only the small area and pathway has been cleared of these deadly bombs, to make way to this sparingly visited destination.

It took our Toyota Camry cab more than an hour on mud road to reach the base of the hill, but on reaching there we realized that we need to have 30-40 minutes steep up hill trek, for which we were not properly ‘geared’. However it turned out to be a great fun and quite an adventure- through stony paths, slippery boulders, twig swings, shaking ladders, Log Bridge… But on reaching the top we were rewarded by relishing greenery, gushing waters and even chirping birds. Gradually we discovered that hundreds of phalluses are carved on the riverbed-few visible as geometrically arranged circular bumps, while many more as cylindrical shafts like ‘Shivling’. As we explored along water stream, we could spot out many images carved out on the rocks. A closer look revealed, to our astonishment, figures of Vishnu, lying on Shesh Nag with his consort Laxmi near his feet. On another rock we could identify reclining Vishnu, with a lotus coming out of his navel with Brahma on its tip. Few more carvings like Shiv-Parvati on the back of Nandi, Ganesh etc were hidden in nearby niches or immersed partially under water. Unfortunately we did not have any audience here to share our discovered treasures.

We remembered India here also for one more reason. Many of the carvings have been hacked away by probably greedy thieves or hooligans, a common scenario in India [My friend, Tushar from USA, who visited Angkor this year, sent me the recent pictures. Heartening news is that main carving where Vishnu’s figure was defaced has been now repaired and restored].

The main story as told about these mysterious edifices is equally interesting. These thousands of Lingas and divine carvings bless the river water flowing down from the hills to the plains of Siem Reap .This pious water in turn enrich and empower fertility to the people and their rice fields. I postulate that thousand years back Hindu pilgrims would come to this ancient site to bathe in the sacred water ,worship those ‘Trimurti’ of Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh, and carry back with them sacred water in pots like Gangajal’. This must be like the pilgrimage of ‘Gangotri’ to Cambodian Hindus in ancient times

As we started to climb down along the river, a bigger surprise was waiting for us. Some70-80 yards down, there was a beautiful water fall surrounded by a canopy of lush green trees. Soothing sound of cascading water, refreshing cool breeze, colorful butterflies perching on us –all these created an intoxicating air and a dreamy ambience! After this pilgrimage of ‘Gangotri’, as if we had achieved ‘Nirvana’!! This took me back to my childhood, when I grew fantasying Phantom’s comic fictions and this place exactly replicated my image of his den called ‘Denkali’. And if somebody asks for the best experience of the whole trip, my children will unanimously shout-‘Water Fall-Kbal Spean’. We had spotted stone carvings of beautiful nymphs ‘Apsaras’ in hundreds on many temple walls. We managed to attend a special cultural evening of ‘Apsara Dance’. Incidentally the name of the aircraft on our return journey from Siem Reap was ‘Apsara’. Right from boarding till our flight landed in Bangkok, we were praying that this 'Apsara' should not get a mistimed urgent summons from Lord Indra to his heavenly abode! And probably Lord Vishnu listened to our sincere prayers and sent us His mount 'Garuda' to escort us safely. Yes, preceding flight to take off before ours was of the Indonesian 'Garuda Airlines' to Jakarta!! Was that via Bangkok?!! God knows!